How do you choose a gemstone for custom jewelry?
Sometimes the process begins with a gemstone you have fallen in love with. Sometimes you have an idea for a piece of jewelry and only then look for the stone that will suit it.
In both cases, choosing the gemstone is part of the design itself. Its color, shape, cut, dimensions and character influence the jewelry we create around it — and how you will be able to wear it over the years.
At TzurGems, we bring together Guy’s gemological knowledge and Rafael’s goldsmithing craftsmanship to choose a stone that suits both your taste and the planned piece.
Start with the jewelry and its wearer
Before choosing a stone, it is important to understand who the jewelry is for and how it will be worn.
Is it a ring you will wear every day? A pendant? Earrings for special occasions? Do you like a prominent stone, or prefer a more subtle presence?
Your answers help guide the choice. A stone suited to a pendant is not necessarily the right choice for a ring worn every day. The structure and setting must also suit the stone and its intended use.
The color you love
Color is often the first thing that draws us to a stone.
Even within the same gemstone variety, there can be large differences in hue, depth of color and the way light passes through and is reflected by the stone.
We therefore prefer to examine stones together rather than rely on a color name or photograph alone. A photograph can help establish a direction, but it does not always show the stone as it appears in person.
Our goal is to find the color you love and see how it works with the metal and the other parts of the jewelry.
The same gemstone variety can span a wide range of qualities
Even stones of the same variety span a very wide range of color and clarity qualities.
Hue, depth and distribution of color, transparency and inclusions affect appearance and can create very significant price differences. Two stones of the same variety and similar weight can differ in price by hundreds or even thousands of dollars per carat.
Clarity refers to inclusions and imperfections in a stone. Their significance depends on the gemstone variety, their location and visibility, and their effect on beauty and durability. The presence of inclusions does not necessarily make a stone less interesting or less suitable for jewelry.
A gemstone’s name and weight alone are therefore not enough to understand its quality or value. It is important to examine the individual stone and all its characteristics.
Weight does not tell the whole story
Gemstone weight is measured in carats. One carat equals 0.2 grams, so a five-carat stone weighs one gram.
Carat describes the weight of a stone, but not its apparent size on its own. It should also be distinguished from gold karat, which describes the purity of the metal.
Two stones of the same weight can differ in dimensions, depth and proportions. One may look wider from above, while another carries more of its weight in its depth.
When designing jewelry, we consider actual dimensions and the relationship between the stone and its setting, the finger or the body. The number matters, but so does the way the stone looks within the design.
Shape and cut are related but distinct
Shape is the outline of the stone — for example round, oval, rectangular or pear-shaped. Cut also refers to the arrangement of facets, angles and proportions.
The same shape can appear in different cutting styles and produce a completely different appearance. We therefore consider both the stone’s outline and the way it has been cut and polished.
Rafael translates this choice into a hand-drawn sketch. This allows us to begin seeing the relationship between the gemstone, metal and any side stones before production begins.
Cut determines how a stone presents light
Cut influences the way light travels through a stone and is returned to the eye.
Some cutting styles emphasize light return and brilliance, while others emphasize color or a special optical phenomenon. With a cut that does not suit the stone, some light may escape through its underside instead of returning to the eye, or areas may appear dark.
The result depends on the combination of the stone’s optical properties and its cutting angles, proportions and polish. This is why certain cutting styles are commonly used for particular gemstones: they can present their characteristic properties effectively.
When choosing a stone, we examine how its cut presents the color, how it responds to light and how its appearance works with the planned jewelry.
Durability is part of the choice
A beautiful stone must also suit the way you will use the jewelry.
Durability is about more than resistance to scratches. We also consider sensitivity to impact, the stone’s structure and imperfections or inclusions that may affect working with it and wearing it.
The stone and setting are therefore chosen together. We want to present the gemstone well while designing a structure suited to its characteristics.
It is important to understand the stone’s treatment history
Where relevant, we consider treatments the stone has undergone and their implications for working with it, maintenance and price.
It is worth knowing what you are buying and what to pay attention to later. As part of the selection process, we explain the relevant information about the offered stone so you can make an informed decision.
Choose within your budget
A gemstone’s price is influenced by a combination of factors: variety, color, weight, cut, clarity, treatments and rarity.
During the consultation, we explore options within your budget. Sometimes a small change in dimensions, shape or hue allows us to achieve a result you love while keeping within that budget.
We want to understand what matters most to you and allocate an appropriate share of the investment in your jewelry to it.
What if you already own a stone?
You can bring a stone you own to the consultation. We will examine it and try to assess whether and how it can be incorporated into your new jewelry.
However, we cannot take responsibility for the integrity of a stone that is not ours during the work. It may have a hidden crack or flaw that cannot be identified in advance and could cause it to crack or break during goldsmithing or setting.
We try to assess suitability and risk before starting, but the examination cannot guarantee that the stone will withstand the process.
The gemstone and design develop together
Choosing a stone is not a separate stage followed by simply adding a setting.
Sometimes the gemstone leads the design. Sometimes the design directs us to search for a stone of particular dimensions and shape. Throughout planning, we consider both together until we reach the agreed combination.
This creates jewelry in which the gemstone, metal and proportions work together and suit the person who will wear it.
Would you like to create jewelry around a gemstone you love?
During the design consultation, we will explore the possibilities together and develop the direction for your jewelry. The consultation is booked in advance and lasts up to one hour. It is a paid consultation, and its fee is credited toward your jewelry order when you proceed to production.