Custom Jewelry — From the First Idea to the Finished Piece

Custom jewelry does not begin with a catalogue. It begins with a meeting.

Sometimes you come to us with a clear idea, sometimes with a photograph you have seen, a gemstone you already own, an old piece of jewelry you would like to give a new life — and sometimes simply with a general sense of what you would like to create.

This is where a shared process begins, bringing together your story, our gemological knowledge and the handwork of Rafael, an artisan goldsmith.

The aim is not simply to make a piece that is unavailable in the shop, but to create jewelry that truly suits the person who will wear it — in its appearance, proportions, gemstone, metal and the way it will be used over the years.

The design consultation — time devoted entirely to you

The design process begins with a personal consultation, booked in advance, lasting up to an hour.

When you arrive for your consultation, that time is reserved for you. We set aside our day-to-day work, welcome you to the studio, make coffee, sit down together and devote our full attention to the piece we are about to create.

We are interested in more than how you want the jewelry to look. We want to understand who it is for, the story behind it, how it will be worn and what matters to you about it.

You do not need to bring a drawing or know anything about jewelry. You can bring inspiration photographs, a piece you have loved, a gemstone you own, an unfinished idea, or simply tell us what you like — and what you do not like.

Sometimes it is precisely this kind of conversation that reveals the right direction.

During the meeting, we consider gemstones, metals, proportions and styles together, and begin to develop the design.

The design consultation is paid, and the amount paid is credited towards the price of your order when you proceed with making the piece.

Choosing the gemstone

When a gemstone is part of the jewelry, choosing it involves much more than color or size.

As a gemologist, I examine the stone's type, structure, durability, any treatments where relevant, the quality of its cut and its suitability for the piece we are planning.

Not every stone suited to a pendant is necessarily suited to a ring worn every day. Even two stones of the same weight can differ considerably in shape, dimensions and proportions, calling for completely different planning.

When we source a gemstone for your piece, the choice is made as part of the design rather than separately from it. The stone and the setting made for it need to work together.

If you already own a gemstone you would like to incorporate into your new piece, we will examine it and consider the best way to use it.

Choosing the metal

Choosing a metal is also more than a question of color.

Yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, silver and platinum differ in appearance, weight, maintenance, durability and price.

We match the metal to the type of jewelry, the gemstones to be set in it, how it is expected to be worn and, of course, your personal taste.

The aim is for the choice to be right not only on the day you receive your jewelry, but also throughout its use over time.

From idea to paper — Rafael's sketch

At our studio, design does not begin in a computer program.

Rafael is an artisan goldsmith, and his sketches are also made in the traditional way — by hand.

Drawing on the conversation, the gemstones and the direction we have chosen together, Rafael begins to translate the idea into lines and proportions on paper.

The sketch is not simply an illustration of jewelry that has already been decided on. It is part of the creative process itself.

Through drawing, we can examine the relationships between the different parts of the piece, the placement of the gemstones, its structure and character, and make the necessary adjustments before work on the metal begins.

There is something very personal about this process: watching an idea that previously existed only in your mind begin to take shape in the hands of the person who will eventually make it.

Proportions are part of the design

In jewelry, even small differences can be significant.

The size of the gemstone in relation to the body of the piece, the thickness of a ring, the height of a setting, the spacing between stones and the relationship between a center stone and side stones all have a considerable effect on the final result.

That is why we consider more than whether a design is beautiful.

We need to find a balance between aesthetics, comfort, durability and suitability for the way the jewelry will actually be used.

Sometimes a change of one millimeter makes all the difference between a piece that looks right and one in which something simply does not sit well.

Planning is the time to make changes and refine the details

Until production begins, your involvement in the process is considerable.

This is the time to ask questions, make suggestions, consider your options and refine the details with us. We want to reach the making stage only when both you and we know what we are about to create.

Together, we review the design, gemstones, metal, measurements, proportions and construction, and arrive at an agreed design.

This is especially important because, in most cases, once a piece enters production, changes to its design can no longer be made.

That is why we give the planning stage the time and attention it needs.

Then the artisan's work begins

Once the design has been approved, the planning stage ends and the goldsmithing begins.

From here, Rafael takes the sketch and everything we have agreed on and turns them into a real piece of jewelry.

Up to this point, the process takes place in full collaboration with you. Once production begins, we ask you to trust us and the design we have chosen together.

Goldsmithing is an artisan's craft. During production, small professional decisions are made as part of the work itself — drawing on experience, an understanding of the materials and the goldsmith's ability to see how things develop in his hands.

To allow Rafael to work to the standard we expect of ourselves, the making stage needs to remain in his hands, without intervention while the work is underway.

Put simply:

Until production begins, we plan together. Once production starts, you can trust us to take what we have agreed on and carry it out to the best of our ability.

Setting the gemstones

Once the body of the jewelry has been made, it is time to set the gemstones.

Here, too, the type of setting is not solely an aesthetic decision. It needs to suit the stone, its shape, the construction of the jewelry and how the piece is expected to be worn.

Prong, bezel, channel and other settings create different looks, but also offer different levels of protection for the gemstone.

The aim is to find the approach that presents the gemstone at its best while keeping the practical aspects of the jewelry in mind.

Finishing and inspection

When the goldsmithing and setting are complete, the finishing stage begins.

The piece is polished, and the settings, joints, surfaces and small details are checked.

For a ring, the size and fit are, of course, also checked.

We want to hand over your jewelry only once we are satisfied with the result.

How long does custom jewelry take to make?

In most cases, our delivery time is between three weeks and a month from the point at which the order and design have been finalized.

But custom jewelry is not an off-the-shelf product, and some pieces need more time.

If the design involves a rare gemstone we need to find, a specially cut stone that must be ordered from abroad, or particularly complex goldsmithing, production may take longer.

We prefer to be clear about this from the beginning rather than rush work that needs time.

If your piece is intended for a particular date — a proposal, birthday, anniversary, wedding or another occasion — please tell us at the consultation so we can plan accordingly and make sure the time available is suitable for the work.

How involved are you in the design?

Very involved.

After all, this is one of the things that makes custom jewelry truly personal.

You are part of the idea, the choice of gemstone and metal, the proportions and the design direction. Throughout the planning stage, we want to hear from you and understand whether we are moving in the right direction.

But part of the process is also knowing when to place the work in the professional's hands.

Once the design has been approved and Rafael begins the goldsmithing, responsibility passes to us. From there, we bring our experience, knowledge and craftsmanship to the piece and carry out what we have agreed on together.

To us, this is a very important part of the relationship formed through this process — genuine collaboration in the design, together with trust in the professionals you have chosen to make it.

In the end

Custom jewelry is more than the sum of the materials it is made from.

It begins with a conversation, moves through a gemstone, metal, a hand-drawn sketch and goldsmithing, and at the end becomes a personal object created for a particular person.

At TzurGems, we bring two worlds together in this process: gemological knowledge and an artisan's goldsmithing.

We devote time to you when listening and planning matter, and from the moment the craft begins, we devote our time and experience to turning the idea we have agreed on into a real piece of jewelry.